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要旨:
Mechanisms of wave transformation in finite-depth water are investigated. The linear mechanisms ex- amined are percolation, bottom motion, shoaling, and refraction. The nonlinear mechanisms examined are wave-wave interaction and bottom friction. New exact computations of the nonlinear transfer for fi- nite-depth waves are presented for some directional wave spectra. These mechanisms are found to ex- plain satisfactorily wave decay observations obtained at several sites with different bottom sediment properties. The decay rates at these sites are found to be dominated by different mechanisms which are determined by the bottom conditions. As an example, detailed calculations are presented for data ob- tained at the Jonswap site.
