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  The rise of the cosmetic industry in ancient China: insights from a 2,700‐year‐old face cream

Han, B., Chong, J., Sun, Z., Jiang, X., Xiao, Q., Zech, J., et al. (2021). The rise of the cosmetic industry in ancient China: insights from a 2,700‐year‐old face cream. Archaeometry, 12659. doi:10.1111/arcm.12659.

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 Urheber:
Han, Bin, Autor
Chong, Jianrong, Autor
Sun, Zhanwei, Autor
Jiang, Xiaochenyang, Autor
Xiao, Qiqi, Autor
Zech, Jana1, Autor           
Roberts, Patrick1, Autor           
Rao, Huiyun, Autor
Yang, Yimin1, Autor           
Affiliations:
1Archaeology, Max Planck Institute for the Science of Human History, Max Planck Society, ou_2074312              

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Schlagwörter: ruminant adipose fat, monohydrocalcite, stalactite, face cream, Taoist School
 Zusammenfassung: Cosmetic has a long history in China while its origin has remained unclear. It potentially originated in the Spring and Autumn period (770‐476 BC) but little is known about its early manufacture and use. The Liujiawa Site, located at the southern edge of the Loess Plateau in northern China, was the late capital of the Rui State in the early to middle Spring and Autumn Period. During the excavation, a sealed small and exquisite container with suspected cosmetic use was unearthed from tomb M49 belonging to a male associated with the aristocratic class. Here, we report the multidisciplinary application of ATR‐FTIR, XRD, SEM, stable isotope analysis, GC/MS, and GC‐C‐IRMS analysis of the residue inside the container, demonstrating that the residue, made of ruminant adipose fat mixed with monohydrocalcite coming from cave moonmilk, was likely used as cosmetic face cream by the nobleman of ancient Rui State. This work provides an early example of cosmetic production in China and, together with the prevalence of similar cosmetic containers during this period, suggests the rise of an incipient cosmetics industry. Furthermore, the exploitation of moonmilk, a special stalactite in some limestone caves, reflects the link between early Taoist School and cosmetic production encouraged by the aristocratic class.

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Sprache(n): eng - English
 Datum: 2021-02-01
 Publikationsstatus: Online veröffentlicht
 Seiten: 25
 Ort, Verlag, Ausgabe: -
 Inhaltsverzeichnis: 1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1 Site and sample background
2.2 FTIR analysis
2.3 XRD analysis
2.4 SEM analysis
2.5 Inorganic carbon and oxygen isotope analysis
2.6 GC/MS analysis
2.7 GC-C-IRMS analysis
3. Results
3.1 The source of inorganic mineral
3.2 The origin of fat matrix
4. Discussion
4.1 The origin of the animal lipids
4.2 The exploitation of stalactites along with the Taoist School Cave Cultus
4.3 The earliest face cream in China
4.4 The rise of the cosmetic industry in the early period of Spring and Autumn
 Art der Begutachtung: Expertenbegutachtung
 Identifikatoren: DOI: 10.1111/arcm.12659
Anderer: shh2844
 Art des Abschluß: -

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Titel: Archaeometry
Genre der Quelle: Zeitschrift
 Urheber:
Affiliations:
Ort, Verlag, Ausgabe: Oxford : Oxford University, Research Laboratory for Archaeology and the History of Art.
Seiten: - Band / Heft: - Artikelnummer: 12659 Start- / Endseite: - Identifikator: ISSN: 0003-813X
CoNE: https://pure.mpg.de/cone/journals/resource/954925381004